Iceland is one of the most beautiful countries and it had been on my (Sarah’s) list to visit for years. With it being a fairly short plane ride away from most of Europe it can make a great long weekend destination but is it possible to see more than just Reykjavík when you go for a long weekend?
Our two day and three night road trip round Reykjavik and the Golden Circle
We got to experience the beauty of Iceland in December which is one of the more challenging months for weather. We stayed for three nights and two full days (as we arrived late on the first night and left very early on the third day) and it is definitely possible to see more of this beautiful country.
Before we went to Iceland, we had spent a lot of time understanding the accessibility during the winter months as that brings far more challenges than staying in the summer months and we were keen to make the most of our trip. It’s also worth knowing that the daylight hours are short (only around 4 – 5 daylight hours in December) so you do have to plan for this as well.
Two days in Iceland our Golden Circle Itinerary
We focused our travel on starting in Reykjavík and making our way round some of the Golden Circle. Our goal was to see as much as we could but also to leave enough time to experience a spa lagoon at the end of our trip because let’s be fair is there a better way to warm up after two days of Icelandic adventures. To be able to do this we made the decision to hire a car which we picked up at the airport when we landed but there are also lots of day tours available from Reykjavik, which take a similar route on the Golden Circle.
We made the decision to spend our first night in Reykjavik, even though we arrived late we knew we would have limited time in the city so dinner and sightseeing in the dark was our agenda for the first evening. Although I was initially unsure how this sightseeing would go in the evening it was absolutely beautiful to see the city all lit up.
Day 1 – The Golden Circle
Þingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park and Öxarárfoss waterfall
After a few hours sleep (and with coffee on board) we got up early and drove straight to Þingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park. The roads were icy but with the cars all having studded tyres it felt safe we just took it easy.
Þingvellir is a UNESCO site where the tectonic plates meet. As a first stop this is a breathtaking location and truly does give you a feel for the sorts of sights and landscapes you will see in Iceland. Walking through the park, you can see Öxarárfoss waterfall and the church. I would highly recommend if you are visiting in Winter though to get some spikes/crampons for your shoes as it was extremely icy in certain areas and there was a lot of people that couldn’t walk in certain areas of the park due to this.
Geysir Geothermal Area
We then headed onto Geysir Geothermal Area – this is an area of geysers and hissing vents. Strokkur is what takes centre stage at this stop and you can see it erupt every few minutes. This really is amazing to see and because it erupts every few minutes, it didn’t ever seem too busy as people would watch and then leave.
Gullfoss Waterfall
Gullfoss Waterfall – This is another key stop on the Golden Circle route and it’s amazing to see this powerful, two-tiered waterfall. We found this one of the windiest destinations on our route, so wrapping up warm is essential.
Faxi Waterfall
This waterfall we believe is privately owned so the set up is different here with a parking barrier and payment booth – it also doesn’t have the facilities that the other stops do. Although I wasn’t as sure about this stop when we were originally planning our trip, what we did find was this is a much quieter spot so at one point there was only us and another couple there. This means its great to get photos and just have a couple of minutes away from the hustle an bustle of the other stops.
Friðheimar (Fridheimar) Tomato Greenhouse Restaurant.
This is a an amazing place to stop. It’s a family run business and they grow tomatoes all year-round under artificial lighting in their huge greenhouses despite the very long winters in Iceland. The restaurant is based inside one of the greenhouses and to make sure that you get a table you need to book ahead. Even if you aren’t driving yourself on this trip, there are lots of day trips available which incorporate Fridheimar as well.
They do all sorts of tomato-based dishes and drinks but they are known for their tomato soup which is what we decided to indulge in and the selection of bread that you get with it is amazing.
We then stayed at a hotel off the beaten track called Hotel Grimsborgir , we were so hopeful to see the Northern lights as this hotel is in a perfect setting to see them and they also have Northern lights wake up calls so that you can go to sleep without the fear of missing them. Unfortunately for us, even in the most idyllic rural setting the Northern lights just didn’t want to come out that night.
Day 2 – Seljalandsfoss, Gljufrabui, Kerið Crater and the Sky Lagoon
Seljalandsfoss
This is one of the most visited waterfalls in Iceland. It is an absolutely beautiful waterfall but a huge attraction of it is that there are times of the year where you can walk behind it which allow you to see a completely different view from the other side of the water (the pictures of this also look amazing) but due to us visiting in winter, it was inaccessible due to the ice which is something to be aware of. Having said that it was still absolutely beautiful to see it and getting there early in the morning was well worth it before the coach tours start arriving as we could get down the pathways to take some great photos in front of it.
Take a photo in the hidden waterfall – Gljufrabui
There is also a second waterfall just a very short walking distance away from Seljalandsfoss and this small waterfall is known as the hidden waterfall because it is nestled inside a canyon. It’s a really straightforward walk from Seljalandsfoss and when you get to Gljufrabui you can either see it from outside the canyon glimpsing through the rocks or if you are dressed in suitable clothing it’s absolutely worth making your way into the canyon for such an amazing view. Again we did this extremely early in the morning so we were really lucky that there wasn’t a lot of tourists there at the time which meant we got through the canyon and had the most amazing experience clambering onto the rock to see and hear the waterfall right behind us.
Walk around the edge of Kerið Crater
We then started to head back towards Reykjavik and stopped off via the Kerið Crater. This is a 6500 year old volcanic crater lake with beautiful red slopes which contrast against the water. There is a fee to get in to the crater as I believe it’s privately owned and although it’s only a short stop we enjoyed seeing it. You can walk round the top and also down to the lake but the steps down to the lake are extremely slippy in the ice so be prepared even with grips on your shoes we fell over a few times.
Warm back up and relax at Sky Lagoon
We made it back to the Reykjavik for mid afternoon for the Sky Lagoon. There’s a lot of discussion over whether Blue Lagoon or Sky Lagoon is the best, we chose Sky as the pictures overlooking the water appealed to me and I really enjoyed it! Nothing quite like sipping a glass of Prosecco whilst sitting over looking the water.
We then headed back to a hotel in Reykjavik for dinner and an overnight stay before a very early flight the next day.
FAQ’s about our trip to Iceland
Do you need a car?
The quick answer to this is no, there are so many tours available which take you from Reykjavik to all of the key sights and these can easily be booked online on a site such as Viator (like this Golden Circle with Kerid Crater tour) or a tour which includes the tomato farm and seeing the Icelandic horses. If you want to beat the crowds and see Iceland in your own time though, we would highly recommend getting a car – you can book online. I would just recommend taking out the extra insurance in Iceland on any car hire to make sure you are covered.
What to wear?
Warm layers!!! I’m (Sarah) a naturally cold person whereas Steve is normally fairly warm and both of us dressed in layers which also helps when you are getting in and out of the car. In the Winter months it can be extremely cold and windy so think – base layers, then 1 or 2 additional layers plus a jacket and waterproof trousers. I chose to wear ski trousers with base layers underneath which kept me warm and dry all weekend. Also make sure you remember a good hat and gloves which are also waterproof – again ski gloves or similar are ideal. For shoes we both chose waterproof walking boots we then added on YakTrax Snow and Ice Grips when we needed them.
Parking and Facilities
The one thing that I always like to know when I am road tripping is are their facilities (toilets, shops etc on the route) this just helps you to plan accordingly. Iceland completely amazed me with their facilities, the Golden Circle route is geared towards visitors so at most of the key sites, there are good toilet facilities, food and hot drink vendors and plenty of souvenir shops. Parking also tends to be extremely easy at the stops and most of it is done via app – the Parka app is one that is used a lot.
Sky Lagoon or Blue Lagoon
Now this a big question, we chose to do Sky Lagoon (and their 7 step ritual) and I believe they are both very different. I will cover the reasons why we chose Sky Lagoon versus the Blue Lagoon in another post and our experiences whilst we were there.